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Late-breaking telexes from the craft spirit front by Wayne Curtis, author of And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in 10 Cocktails, columnist for Imbibe, and designated drinker for The Atlantic magazine.

  • And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails
    And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails
    by Wayne Curtis

Contact: Email me via www.waynecurtis.com

Twitter: @waynecurtis

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Friday
Sep192014

Where's my lawyer? The Templeton lawsuit is causing me mental anguish, too 

I'm about a week late on this story in Courthouse News, but it's a good overview of the emerging flap over truth-in-labeling. The yammer-yammer is mostly focusing on Templeton Rye, which is fast becoming as the whipping boy on this issue. I've long pushed for more forthrightness in claims of history, heritage, craft and sourcing, and I've pointed at Templeton in the past as a violator. But the class action lawsuit smacks of idiot opportunism.

Yes, Templeton may have misled Christopher McNair and caused him mental anguish because he bought a few bottles under the belief that it was made in Iowa and was the drink Al Capone favored. But, come on. If you're fool enough to buy a product based on marketing claims, you probably deserve to be taken. How about a lawsuit against Grey Goose because no matter how often you drink it, you never end up at the parties pictured in the ads? There's no mention of another fact: It's actually an excellent rye, even if it's not really small batch nor from Iowa.

Templeton was wrong in its marketing, but they're being responsible by correcting it. They were following the sloppy standards of the times when they launched, and the times have changed all around them rapidly. So they've reset their footing on shifting sands. The rest of us would probably do well to do the same.

Monday
Sep152014

More on Balcones from Dave Broom & crew

After the initial eruction of local reports over Chip Tate being banned from entering the distillery he founded, a few more facts and a lot more speculation have surfaced. The broader takeaway: if you're a craft stiller, watch out how you bring in when you need more funds to underwrite expansion.

See Broom's piece in Whisky Advocate. His overview attractedcommentary from whiskey world luminaries, including Lew Bryson, Chuck Cowdery, Clay Risen, and James Rodewald (who's new book on craft distilling offers some wider context).

Thursday
Sep042014

Growing pains, of sorts, at Balcones

As craft distilling grows and the pot of dollars gets bigger, disputes seem to get nastier

Like this one at Balcones Distilling. According to a report in the Waco Tribune, there's substantial ill will between president Chip Tate, and his board, and the dispute which may threaten future opeations. Balcones is one of the nation's outstanding craft spirits producers, willing to challenge traditional distillers by using innovative variations on grain, like the blue corn bourbon.

The board has taken Tate to court, accusing him of "acts harmful to Balcones" and “unconscionable and reprehensible” behavior. A hearing is set for September 18.

Members of the board accurse Tate of threatening ("I should have put two in his chest,” Tate said, according to court documents), and it also charges that he made some allusions to the many flammable products in the distillery, and essentailly, that it wold be a shame if something hapened... if the board didn't let him continue on. On August 22, a state district judge issues a temporary restraining order prohibiting Tate from entering the distillery.

Tate's side was't presented in the story. Stay tuned.

Tuesday
Sep022014

Templeton Rye: “Did we sat Prohibition-era recipe? Never mind.”

Independent bottlers are starting to feel legal and public pressure on true in labeling.

For years bottlers been able to essentially claim whatever they wanted on their labels — making up stories about how their recipes came to be, and how they’re made in small batches in small towns. But as they say around these parts, “that shit just don’t flush anymore.”

In my last Atlantic column, I reported on a number of ryes sourced from the Indiana distillery MGP, sometimes still known as LDI, or Lawrenceburg Distillery, after a previous incarnation. (It was earlier owned by Seagram’s.) Others have reported on the same, including Eric Felten in this Daily Beast piece [LINK]. It’s not a matter of substandard quality — as I noted in my column, the MGP rye is some of the best rye ever produced — but a matter of truth in labeling.

Some of those MGP-sourced ryes include Bulleit, Templeton, Old Scout, Redemption and High West. I’ve always credited High West and Old Scout for being transparent, and never making claims that their whiskey came from a still in a barn run by an old guy with a corncob pipe. it’s sourced and blended and it said so on the label.

Others have become more forthright over time. I interviewed Tom Bulleit about four years ago and he was all “family recipe” this and “honoring his ancestors” that. When I interviewed him again this past summer, I didn’t get any of that. We spent most of the time talking about sourcing and supplies, and he was completely forthright about his Indiana pipeline. There was no mention of family recipe, and lots of talk of Diageo’s involvement. (Note: he told me that they’d forecast demand for rye very aggressively a few years ago, and that MGP has laid down plenty of stock and there’s no likelihood of Bulleit coming up short in the foreseeable future.)

The Spirits Business [link] reported yesterday that Templeton Rye just blinked. This is bought in bulk from Indiana then blended and bottled in Iowa. Templeton announced that it will no longer claim it’s from a “prohibition-era recipe,” and furthermore that the label will be changed to read “distilled in Indiana.” At a least until their much-promised Iowa distillery gets built and operating, possibly next year.

It’s would be easy to be cynical about these changes in approach. But I’m not. It seems a healthy evolution. I don’t think the TTB will ever find a way to define and restrict the term “craft” on spirits labels. So it becomes a matter of educating consumers, and that begins with labels that tell consumers the truth.

So this is a good change, if a little overdue. Templeton and Bulleit remain excellent ryes, and WhistePig (sourced from Alberta, Canada) is an outstanding rye, despite never having been near the state of Vermont.

More truthful labeling will help consumers understand what they’re buying, and level the playing field so that locally crafted ryes — made from actual local grain and distilled in actual small distilleries — can fairly compete on the shelves to attract attention from those willing to pay a premium for what’s actually craft and local.   

Saturday
Aug302014

Craft spirits shelf scramble “rattling the markets”

Pernod-Ricard announced some less than stellar financial results this week  — net profits dropped 14 percent in the past year. As a result, the company will lay off 900 employees. CEO Pierre Pringuet told journalists that part of the reason behind the bleak report was the rise of craft spirits.

Not that the Lilliputians were preventing Gulliver from doing what he does well (Pernod Ricard makes Absolut, Jameson, and Beefeater, among many others). But Pringuet noted that shelf space in bars and liquor stores is a limited commodity, and the sheer number of new brands is posing a challenge to the real estate normally claimed by legacy brands. The arrival of the little people has done much to “rattle the market,” he said, as reported by Andy Morton on Just-Drinks.com.

Pernod-Richard has been thinking about what to do about this craft spirits encroachment for a while. (See this Feburary 2013 story in by Becky Paskin in The Spirits Business.)  A few months ago, Pernod's “black ops team” came out with Our/Vodka — the idea being that the global giant will pair with local distilleries to produce local vodka. (From the Our/Vodka website: “It’s a global vodka made by local partners in cities around the world.”) All will have share DNA, and will be sold in bottles that like a craft brich beer from a Brooklyn loft. Each claims a subtle local variation to reflect the city of origin. Our/Berlin was released first; Our/Detroit rolled out a couple of weeks ago. I haven't tried either, so I'm not sure how Berlin tastes compared to Detroit. Up next: Our/Seattle (October) followed by Our/New York and Our/Los Angeles in 2015.

Pernod-Ricard hit it big with Abosolut years ago when global brands were the thing. It’s now betting that local will trump global — or if not trump it, at least give a run for the shelf space. So Gulliver is doing something new: making Lilliputians.

Friday
Apr112014

What, no Skittles? Liquor migrates from nursery to rumpus room at WSWA

A man in a tailored suit stepped into the elevator, saw my media badge, then immediately reached into his pocket to brandish a sealed, single-serving drink he described as a “super-premium shot.”

It resembled a transparent Keurig pod filled with a clear liquid. What type of liquid and what flavor I failed to learn because, well… have you ever been in a plummeting elevator with a stranger waving a plastic shot of something in your face while excitably repeating “the next big thing”? Fight or flight kicked in, big time.

I was at Ceasar’s Palace in Las Vegas this week for the massive annual Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of America convention. I’ve attended several times in the past, and each time I felt as if I’ve suddenly stepped into a colorful, Oz-like land  — one populated with vacantly smiling Amazonian models in slinky black cocktail dresses always proffering colorful drinks (except for the vacantly smiling models dressed in storm-trooper leather proffering rum shots). Also: guys in suits either hawking the next big thing, or in steely-eyed search for it.

The focus here has rarely been on the quality or authenticity or story behind the spirits, but on who has best arranged a forced marriage between alcohol and flavors of childhood. (It was here I was first introduced to Adult Chocolate Milk and Skittles-inspired flavored vodka. And cake-flavored vodka. Lots of cake-flavored vodka.)  

Yet, despite my elevator encounter, my sense was that the annual gathering was starting to grow up. There were fewer cake and candy flavors, and a lot more flavors trending toward exotic and interesting.

Danny Brager, a senior-vice president at Nielsen, a firm that takes an unseemly interest in what you drink and why, said at one panel discussion a “broader revolution around generational changes” was underway. He suggested that Millenials are focused more on what’s local and what’s authentic. Essentially, they’re looking for the Etsy of liquor, he said — they’re drawn to smaller brands with a story and a handcrafted touch. Big Liquor doesn’t interest them so much.

Not that bro-booze, you-go-girlfriend! ready-to-drink cocktails, and cake and candy vodka flavors will disappear. (And don’t even ask me about Vodquila.) But in roaming the expo and getting lost in endless hospitality suites, I sensed that the industry was starting to recalibrate somewhat.

“There’s an overlap between what craft spirits offer and what Millenials are looking for,” said Tom Mooney, the president of new American Craft Distillers Association and a CEO of House Spirits in Oregon, at the panel. ”This is a fortuitous circumstance of Millenials coming of age and craft sprits coming of age, and hopefully they’ll stay together for life.”

I tasted more intriguing, challenging products here than in the past. That included Black Balsam, a Latvian-based fernet with a recipe dating to 1752 that’s now stepping up its efforts in the U.S. after lackluster distribution in the past.

And a new, complex two-year aged wheat whiskey coming off Germain-Robin’s antique copper pot still. And an exceedingly tasty barrel strength rye sourced by Redemption — with six years in wood and bottled at just over at 120 proof.

Even when flavors were involved, they seemed to venture beyond the nursery. I liked the Selveray Cacao Rum, an aged Panamanian rum with sophisticated dark-chocolate notes. Even the Stolen rum flavored with tobacco and coffee — which isn’t wholly original; remember Ivanabitch Vodka’s tobacco and menthol flavors? — had a challenging, slightly sulfurous bite that could do well paired up with a dense vermouth and offsetting bitters.

And the bottled cocktails I sampled stuck me as better and far more natural tasting than in the past. The Miami Cocktail Co. had bottled drinks (mojito, sweat tea, pina colada) made with all natural ingredients which managed to avoid the metallic taste of the New Jersey turnpike flavor-industrial complex. Even better were the three bottled cocktails created by Charles Joly for Crafthouse (Moscow mule, paloma, south side). At my first sip of the Southside, I thought, whoa, someone finally figured out how to preserve the crisp taste of freshly squeezed lime in a bottle. That’s no mean feat.    

I didn’t see the Ivanabitch folks this year, nor the Skittles-inspired vodka. It seemed as if the party had been moved from the toddler’s nursery to the tween’s rumpus room.

Carving out a space in the liquor world demands a deft touch. If you’re just staring out, it’s not enough to copy a successful mainstream liquor, like Bulleit Bourbon or Appleton Rum. New producers will always lose the distribution and advertising wars, not to mention economies of scale. But neither can they jump the shark too audaciously, because that triggers ridicule.

This year, I didn’t notice as many sharks circling nor guys in suits jumping. The space between too-familiar and too-fatuous seemed to be growing a little more populated, a little more inclusive, a lot more interesting.

Still, be alert when you’re in the elevators. 

Tuesday
Mar182014

Jack v. George? Follow the barrel

A bill was introduced into the Tennessee state legislature recently in which the devil is very much in the details.

The bill defines “Tennessee whisky,” and the devil has three letters. It’s the word “new.” The present bill is essentially a revision to a bill passed last year. Under last year's law, backed by Jack Daniel's, to be labeled as Tennessee whisky, white dog must be aged in “new, charred oak barrels.” The new bill, introduced at the prodding of George Dickel, requires only that white dog sit only in “charred oak barrels.” (Chuck Cowdery has posted both new and old bills here.)

The bill’s revision puts Jack at odds with George. That sounds pretty homespun and all Hatfield vs. McCoyish, but of course this is a heat-butting between two industry giants: Brown-Forman (Jack Daniels) vs. Diageo (George Dickel).

Diageo is in favor of allowing used oak barrels, and has recruited some craft distillers to its side. It claims, not very believably, that it’s interested in defending the rights of the little guy to choose what barrel it wants.  (The legislator who sponsored the new bill said of Brown-Forman, “They are a big bully picking on all the little guys.” Very rich, given that Diageo posted $17 billion in sales last year, vs. $3 billion for Brown-Forman.)

But what’s really behind this?

My suggestion: Follow the barrels.

It’s quite hard to source new oak barrels today, for a variety of reasons that I won’t delve into here. But getting enough new barrels to age bourbon or Tennessee whiskey is becoming a problem.

And it’s especially becoming a problem for Diageo, which has to compete with other big-time distillers for a dwindling supply, along with a booming wine and craft spirits industry, all of whom are clamoring for increasingly scarce barrels. (One craft distiller I spoke with two weeks ago told me that Independent Stave Company, the nation’s largest cooperage, told him to call back in nine to twelve months, as they had no barrels at this time.)

Why doesn’t Brown-Forman have the same sourcing problem? Because they run their own cooperage in Louisville. And in two months, they’re slated to open a second cooperage in northern Alabama. This will do little to relieve the national shortage of barrels, as the new place is being built solely to supply Jack Daniels.

Diageo, foreseeing difficulties in getting enough new oak to meet the legal definition of “Tennessee Whisky,” is simply following a time-honored path: it’s working to change the law. If they don’t need to use new barrels, they can simply re-use the old ones.

One word, three letters, problem solved.

As I’ve written before, barrels matter. Industry people say that barrels provide anywhere between fifty and eighty percent of the taste of bourbon, which by law must be aged in new barrels. A once-used barrel doesn’t impart much in the way color (one hundred precent of the color of bourbon comes from the barrel), nor nearly as much flavor — the barrel has had much of its oaky goodness leached out during the first round of aging. It’s like using fresh herbs in a preparing a meal, or dried herbs that have been sitting in the back of your cupboard for three years. There’s a noted difference.

How does the proposed bill affect the consumer? By changing the law to eliminate word “new”, the state legislature essentially moots the definition of Tennessee whisky. Pick a bottle up in the store, and you might get full-bodied whisky aged in new barrels. Or you might get a thin whisky aged in thrice-used barrels and carmel-colored for consistency.

Those in favor of a more expansive definition of Tennessee whiskey grouse that, under last year's law, all Tennessee whiskey will end up tasting like Jack Daniels. That’s patent nonsense, of course. It’s the same as saying under federal law, all bourbon tastes the same. Yet, bourbon come in many varieties, with wide pricing differences that reflect that. 

I’d like to see last year’s definition maintained, and the “new” kept in the “charred oak barrels.” As a consumer, that gives me a baseline of what to expect when I pick up a bottle labeled “Tennessee whisky.” Diageo is looking for an easy way out of the barrel squeeze.

Don’t let it.

Monday
Oct212013

Field Trip: Hunt + Alpine Club, Portland, Maine

For all its exalted stature in the foodie press, Portland, Maine, has never had a dedicated craft cocktail bar. You can always get a solidly made drink at one of the better restaurants (Fore Street, The Front Room), but bar-wise it’s always been more of beer town.

Happily, that's changed. Andrew Volk swapped Portlands a couple of years back — Oregon for Maine. (He worked with Jeffery Morgenthaler at Clyde Common). Then this past summer he opened the Portland Hunt + Alpine Club, right in the middle of the quaint and tidy Old Port. Yes, it’s got an ironic Brooklynesque name given the distance from any place to actually hunt or ski (see: Union Pool, Bushwick Country Club), but Volk carries it off well — it’s irony without the air quotes. The space is beautiful, bright and welcoming.

Volk tends bar along with craft cocktail pioneer John Myers, who moved from the Grill Room just across the park. Myers started out behind the stick in Washington, D.C., and moved to Maine in 2001. He’s a more or less a classicist when it comes to drink, which is good since in Maine the range of liquors is limited by the state-decreed nanny-distribution system. If you buy me a drink, I’ll tell you about the time Myers came out to my house when I lived on Peaks Island to help me drain bottles that were less than half full prior to my move to New Orleans. It was a long night; I took Myers to three ferries to send him home, one of which we missed and two of which evidently never existed. I believe we got rid of more liquor in the coffee the next morning.

The cocktail list will keep both strict cocktail constructionists and the general public slaked and entertained. Classics are well represented (Clover Club, El Presidente, La Louisiane, Tommy’s Margarita), but so too are modern adaptations, like Volk’s own gin and tonic variation made with Cocchi and quinine syrup. Fernet Branca is spread around the menu like lobster buoys around a harbor.

A private lodge exists within the lounge here — it’s reserved for lodge “members” (buffalo horns optional) who pony up $2,500 (which includes a $2,000 bar tab and access to the private space, which is sort of like a ski hut come to the city for a little urban getaway). Nobody was in residence when I visited, but it seems like it would be a good place to entertain friends and clients.

Food is second to the drink here but well considered. It’s vaguely Nordic in inspiration, with options like gravlax and pickled beet salad.

If I still lived in Portland — and I lived here for nearly twenty years, or as I remember it, twenty winters — this would be my regular haunt. I have fond memories of spending long winter days at another (now gone) bar a few blocks away, sitting at a corner table that was flooded with late afternoon sunlight. Add a handful of friends, a Scrabble board, popcorn with Siracha, and endless pints of beer, and the stage was set for lazy afternoons punctuated by physical altercations, game board over-flipping, and out-storming following arguments of how to pluralize certain obscure nouns.

I already have a table picked out at Portland Hunt + Alpine for winter afternoons. Now I just need a plane ticket and a new Scrabble board. Well that, and getting over lingering frostbite-related PTSD from walking home into knifing wind after getting off the ferry near midnight on February nights.

Or maybe I'll just go back next summer.

Portland Hunt + Alpine Club, 75 Market St., Portland, ME. 207-747-4754. huntandalpineclub.com

Tuesday
Mar122013

Press releases I didn't finish reading

"Pumpkin Face Rum, a line of ultra premium rum imported from Dominican Republic, was introduced last year to rave reviews. As a result of a successful launch and high demand worldwide, Itsko Imports of Beverly Hills, California has expanded its Pumpkin Face line to include an ultra premium Cream liqueur..."

[Editor's note: Umm.. Pumpkin Face Cream Liqueur? Sorry. I only drink Neutrogena Visibly Firm Night Cream Liqueur.]

Thursday
Mar072013

Press releases I didn't finish reading

“Peligroso Tequila, known for its dangerously exceptional juice, is heating up the market yet again with the launch of the newest member of its premium tequila family—Peligroso Cinnamon. The world’s first 84 proof cinnamon-flavored tequila is infused with 100% pure cinnamon and a blend of secret ingredients...”